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Date: |
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Description: | Twilled wool/worsted tartan, 3-piece tail suit.
The pattern is a MacKenzie tartan, almost certainly woven by Wm Wilson & Son, Bannockburn. The Wilsons of Bannockburn began to weave tartans in the 1760s and by 1800 had cornered the market.
Coat; high stand-fall collar, stiffened and quilted on underside, with triangular cut-out at join with lapel; fronts each in one piece, shoulder seam set far back, side seamextending right round side back, top centre front edge cut in upward point and turned back to form lapel trimmed two false buttonholes, four worked buttonholes and six flat covered buttons on each front edge, top two buttons covered by lapel (2nd button from top missing on both sides), fronts cut straight across at waist level at centre, then slanting down from side front to reach almost knee level at side, false pocket flap across each hip, side back seams slanting in towards centre back; very narrow back in two shaped sections seamed down centre, covered button at each side waist, skirt backs cut wider to overlap each other down centre, seam left open, backs overlapped by front sections all down skirt with seam left open halfway down from waist each side to form pocket, flat covered button just above hem each side, concealed by overlapping of sections; long sleeves each in two slightly shaped sections set flat on to deep (9.5 cm) cuff fastened two small covered buttons and worked buttonholes; coat lined brown plain weave cotton, padded and quilted at neck edge, skirt fronts faced coat fabric, sleeves lined white plain weave cotton.
Waistcoat; high (6cm) standing neckband at back, seamed down centre narrowing to front, top edge turned over from shoulder to front; fronts each in one section, top front corner turned back to form tiny lapel, edges fastened seven small covered buttons (three missing) and worked buttonholes, horizontal pocket opening on each hip edged narrow band of waistcoat fabric cut to match checks; back, brown glazed twilled cotton, in two sections seamed down centre, two pairs of tapes on either side lower centre back to adjust fullness (one pair missing, one pair broken); front edges faced waistcoat fabric, front hem faced brown glazed twilled cotton, remainder lined white plain weave cotton cut as waistcoat. Trousers; waistband, faced white plain weave cotton, in two separate pieces widening from 5 cm at centre back to 9 cm. at centre front, two pairs eyelet holes for lacing at back, three flat metal buttons and buttonholes at centre front (lowest buttonhole taken in waistband seam) small horizontal pocket opening edged trouser fabric on right front waistband, button at each side centre back and centre front ( left front button missing); legs each in two sections seamed down inside and outside leg, centre front cut away in triangle below button fastening, covered by square flap attaching to three buttons at base of waistband, front side edge forming loose pocket flap buttoning to fcing at side seam, backs gathered into waistband; channel for tape across inside right back hip, signs of stitching to match on left side, tape slotted through channel and tying through one pair eyelet holes 22 cm. down from waist; front edges and flap faced dark brown glazed plain weave linen.
There is no horizontal seam above the fronts on the tailcoat, which might imply an earlier date, perhaps 1820-5.
Material: wool
Material: twill
suit, 1830 = 1840, (1973.288). | Source: | Manchester City Galleries | Identifier: | mcag.emu.ecatalogue.7633 | Go to resource |
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